"The Mineral Makeup Coach Blog"

Antibiotics for Treating Acne: A Closer Look

More than 60 million Americans suffer from some form of acne breakouts.  Acne affects more than 80% of all teenagers at some point in their lives, and clogged pores comprise more than 25% of all visits to the dermatologist.  Acne has now hit epidemic proportions in adults, especially women.  What used to be just a "teenage problem" is now a real challenge in people's lives.

Women in their 30's, 40's and beyond are now not only dealing with aging skin but acne breakouts as well.  Confused, they are running to the dermatologist faster than ever for a prescription of either topical or oral antibiotics to kill the acne-causing bacteria known as p.acnes (Propionibacterium acnes).

Is this a wise decision?  As a licensed esthetician, acne specialist AND former acne-sufferer, I think NOT.  Let me explain...

Antibiotics, when taken for acne, only address ONE part of the problem.  They are meant to kill bacteria.  They do not tackle the issue of excessive shedding of the skin cells.  Normal pores shed up to one layer of dead skin cells per day, whereas the acne-prone pore will shed up to FIVE layers per day.  To add insult to injury, the skin cells of an acne-prone pore are "stickier" than those of a normal pore.  The "stickiness" causes the skin cells to clump together.  To make matters even worse, an acne-prone individual produces more facial oil (sebum) which also tends to be thicker.  The thicker sebum combines with the mass of dead skin cells and a plug begins to form in the pore causing blackheads and whiteheads.  Bacteria love an anaerobic (without oxygen) environment and they begin to feed on the plug in the pore which causes inflammation.  Antibiotics will do NOTHING to stop the excess shedding of skin cells.

Oral antibiotics have also been known to cause disturbances in the body's normal pH levels.  Good bacteria are also killed off which throws normal flora completely out-of-whack.  It's no wonder that a lot of times, doctors prescribe an anti-fungal medication right along with an antibiotic prescription.  Yeast infection anyone???  There are also harmful side-effects to consider when using antibiotics, not to mention that the overuse of them has led to resistant strains of bacteria, including p.acnes and MRSA.

All in all, taking antibiotics for the treatment of acne just isn't a good option.  At best, they are temporary solution.  They DO NOT address the root of the problem whatsoever.

Have you taken antibiotics for acne?  I'd love to hear your results; good, bad or indifferent.  Please leave a comment below.

Cheers!

-Kelley (a.k.a. The Mineral Makeup Coach)

 

Is It Time to Change Up Your Skincare Routine?

As the seasons begin to change, you may notice that your skin starts to change aswell.  This is the time to re-evaluate the products you’re currently using and consider switching things up a bit.

What you first need to understand is that your SKIN TYPE isn’t changing; it’s simply a SKIN CONDITION your dealing with.  For example, you may feel drier in colder months, oilier in the warm months and experience breakouts intermittently over the course of the year.  These are skin conditions and can be easily dealt with when you first understand your skin type. 

Let’s review:

Oily/Acne Skin: Occasional to frequent breakouts, congested skin and papules, pustules and comedones.  Pores are enlarged & visible. You’re likely to have oily shine all over the face and within 1-3 hrs of cleansing.

Combination Skin: Oiliness is usually contained to the T-zone.  Pores are visible in the T-zone. You may have
occasional breakouts and skin congestion in this area.  Other areas of the face can be normal to dry.  Oily shine can be seen within 4-6 hrs of cleansing.

Dry Skin: Skin may feel tight and itchy. Flakes of skin are usually visible but pores are not.  Breakouts are rare.  Congestion may only be confined to the nose if at all.

Normal Skin: Breakouts are very rare and the skin’s surface is even and smooth.  There’s typically not a denotation of either dryness or oiliness.

Here are some typical skin conditions and how to deal with them:

Dehydrated & Dull Skin:
Add a hydrating serum to your routine.  Look for ones that contain Hyaluronic Acid.  It’s not an acid at all but is one of the most hydrating ingredients you can use on your skin.  It holds 1000x’s its weight in water!

Breakouts:
Use products that will dissolve excess sebum (salicylic acid) and oxygenating/antibacterial products to kill acne-causing bacteria.  Be cautious though as these types of products can dry out the skin.  Use an oil-free moisturizer.  My best suggestion for those who have acne would be to seek the help of an acne expert.  These professionals have specific training in how to successfully get your skin clear.

Dry Flakey Skin: Use a moisturizing exfoliant such as lactic acid to get rid of visible flakey skin and then follow up with an emollient moisturizer.

Red, Sensitive Skin: Use gentle products designed to soothe and calm.  Make a homemade mask using colloidal oatmeal and milk (or distilled water). Use 1-2x’s per week followed by a moisturizer.

All skin types should avoid using hot water to wash the face because it can cause excessive dryness.  Use tepid water only and be gentle.  The goal to maintaining healthy skin is keeping it balanced no matter what condition your skin is facing.

Cheers!

-Kelley (a.k.a. The Mineral Makeup Coach)

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Sensitive Skin & Exfoliation

Sensitive Skin & Exfoliation

Proper exfoliation is the key to achieving beautiful, healthy-looking skin.  It smoothes the skin's surface while preparing it to fully receive any nutrients you apply to it.  Without exfoliation, the skin tends to appear dry, dull and lifeless.

The question a lot of people ask is, "I have sensitive skin- can I or should I exfoliate?"  The answer is a resounding YES. 

The trick to exfoliating sensitive skin is to use a modality that won't cause any inflammation or further sensitivities.  Most acid-based exfoliation methods (i.e. chemical peels) and microdermabrasion are a NO NO for those with sensitive skin, rosacea and eczema-prone skin.  If the skin is thin and delicate, a gentle method of exfoliation is preferred.  Fragile and damaged skin means that cellular turnover slows down- a lot.  When this happens, dead skin cells build up quickly making the skin appear dull and act sluggish.  Plus, no products can penetrate properly through layers of dead skin cell buildup and your makeup will not apply smooth and flawless.

So, this leads up to what should be used to exfoliate sensitive skin.  First and foremost, remember to be GENTLE.  Always look for products that contain spherical beeds (such as jojoba spheres) or are made of a very fine powder.  For dry sensitive skin, choose powders such as rice powder or yogurt powder.  If you have oily skin that is sensitive, go for kaolin, rose or glacial clays.  They provide a microfine exfoliation while absorbing excess oil at the same time.  Stay away from any type of 'scrubs' or powders that contain particles that have jagged edges to them.  These types of products (i.e. apricot kernels, walnut shells, etc.) can cause micro-tears in the skin which leads to further inflammation.

It's always best to seek the advice of a licensed skin care professional but if you don't have the time or the funds, you can do at-home treatments.  Any of the ingredients I mentioned above can be found online and/or at your local health food store.  You can mix them with plain distilled water, honey or milk/cream.  Honey is best for oilier skin types while milk is best for those who are more to the drier side.  After cleansing your skin, simply make a paste with the suggested ingredients for your skin type and apply to your face and neck.  Massage gently (avoiding the immediate eye area) for about a minute and rinse off with tepid water.  Follow with your favorite serum or moisturizer.  You should do this 1 to 2 times per week in the evening- leaving at least 2-3 days in between treatments.  So, a good schedule might be to do this on a Wednesday and Sunday evening before bed.

If you're consistent with this routine, you will see a noticeable difference in the way your skin looks and behaves.  Of course, if you experience any irritation with the above mentioned suggestions, stop what you're doing and seek medical advice if necessary.

Happy Exfoliating!

Cheers!

-Kelley (a.k.a. The Mineral Makeup Coach)

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Tips to prevent skin dehydration

Summer is Ending but Your SPF Usage Shouldn't!

Summer is winding down and the kiddies are headed back to school.  For some, that means the SPF gets put away on a shelf somewhere until next summer.  DO NOT DO THIS.

We are exposed to ultraviolet light ALL YEAR ROUND.  This means we should be protecting our skin from sun damage 24/7 365 days a year.  Driving in the car, walking into the store and sitting by a window are all sneaky ways that photo damage can occur.

Many people think that if they don't get a burn, they don't get damage.  That's NOT true.  UVB rays cause the burn but only reach the skin's surface.  UVA rays penetrate all the way down into the dermis (deepest layer of skin) and cause hyperpigmentation (brown spots) and the breakdown of collagen and elastin.  This leads to wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin and uneven skin tone.

Did you know that the SPF rating on your bottle, jar or can of sunscreen is ONLY for UVB rays?  The SPF doesn't account for UVA rays.  The FDA is currently working on regulation for a system to rate sunscreen's effectiveness against UVA rays.

Most over-the-counter sunscreens contain chemicals such as oxybenzone and avobenzone.  Chemical sunscreens ABSORB the sun's rays and scatter them within the body.  Also, chemical sunscreens begin to breakdown as soon as they are exposed to light.  They need to be applied 20-30 minutes PRIOR to sun exposure and they need to be reapplied frequently to be effective.  Don't be fooled into thinking that an SPF 50 is BETTER than an SPF 30.  The amount of increased protection between the two is only about 2%-4% , yet it takes tons more chemicals to make an SPF 50.  You don't need all of those additional chemicals getting into your body.  Stick with an SPF 30 and look for one that states "BROAD SPECTRUM PROTECTION".

In my opinion, the best sunscreens are those with physical blockers such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  These prevent the sun's rays from getting into your skin- the rays literally bouce right off.  They can applied as soon as you are exposed to light and they don't have the tendency to breakdown. Plus, zinc and titanium don't cause sensitivies like chemical sunscreens can.  Unlike the formulas of days gone by (think lifeguards with white goo smeared on their faces), today's physical sunscreens are more sheer and made to go on smoothly without leaving all of that ugly residue.

My favorite SPF product is by a company called IMAGE.  Their sunscreens are all physical blockers plus they  are chock full of good-for-your-skin ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants, skin hydrators and green tea.  Plus, they are all paraben-free.  IMAGE is a professional-only product but you can contact them directly to find out which salons in your area carries the line.

So, there you have it.  Be sun smart ALL YEAR ROUND not just in the summer months.  You'll be glad you listened to me. ;-)

RELATED POSTS:
The Truth About Layering Sun Protection Products
It's Official- Indoor Tanning Beds DO Cause Cancer

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Cheers!

-Kelley (a.k.a The Mineral Makeup Coach)
Licensed Esthetician & Owner/Formulator of PRIIA Mineral Cosmetics

Probiotics: A Possible Cure for Acne?

Probiotics are microbes which are "good" bacteria that help to balance the body and can be found in foods such as yogurt and milk.  Probiotics are also available in supplement form such as Acidophillus tablets. 

Typically, probiotics are used to treat wide variety of digestive and gastrointestinal issues, however, lately they are being looked at as a possible topical treatment for acne skin conditions.  The theory being presented is that probiotics will clear up acne by reducing the amount of bacteria on the skin's surface.  Also, probiotics can help reduce the amount of inflammation within the skin which is also a contributing factor to those who suffer from acne.

Here's my opinion on the subject as a licensed skin care professional specializing in the treatment of acneic skin conditions...

First, anything claiming to be a "cure" for acne should immediately send up red flags.  Why?  Because there is NO CURE for acne.  It can be managed but not cured.

Secondly, although the theory of probiotics reducing the amount of bacteria on the skin's surface sounds promising, it doesn't attack the SOURCE.  The bacteria that causes acne is the p.acnes bacteria and lives deep within the sebaceous (oil) glands.  When the follicle gets 'plugged' and no oxygen can get to it, the p.acnes bacteria multiply rapidly because they are anaerobic (live without oxygen).  Once this happens, the infection takes hold and a pimple begins to form.  Probiotics can't get to the source; they only work on the outter most layer of the skin.

Overall, I feel probiotics aren't a bad idea when it comes to another means to treating acne.  They do offer surface bacteria reduction to a point and they have anti-aging and skin-tone-improving abilities.  However, in my opinion, they need to be used IN CONJUCTION with other proven acne-fighters. 

Question: Have you ever tried probiotics as a means to treating breakouts such as making a homemade yogurt facial masque?  Let me know-I'd like to hear your thoughts.  Thanks!

Related Posts:
Can Vitamin C Prevent Acne?
Understanding Your Acne

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Cheers!

-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Why YOU Should Be Using A Facial Toner

The most important step in a skin care routine is obviously cleansing.  The next most important step, in my professional opinion, is using a facial toner suited for your skin type.

Why are toners important? 

First, they help remove any residual debris left on the skin's surface from cleansing.  Secondly, they help bring the skin back to a normal pH level more quickly, which in turn, helps prevent dehydration.  Lastly, toners enable the skin to more effectively receive the benefits of other skin care products such as specialty serums and moisturizers.

Choose a toner that is skin type specific to address your individual needs. Also look for one that is alcohol-free.  You don't want to strip the skin's natural lipid barrier.

If you're looking for a toner but not sure which one to try, consider PRIIA Cosmetics 100% Natural & Vegan facial toners.  Choose from Clarifying for those with oily/congested/acneic skin types or Revitalizing for all skin types.  These toners are skillfully crafted and contain rare and exotic ingredients such as Cactus Flower Extract, plus they're boosted with super antioxidants, such as organic Japanese Green Tea Extract & Vitamin E.  PRIIA's toners are alcohol-free, paraben-free, petroleum derivative-free, synthetic emulsifier-free, FD&C dye-free and as always, cruelty-free.

PRIIA Cosmetics offers sample sizes of these wonderfully refreshing toners.  So, you can try them out before committing to a full-size purchase.

Question:  Do you currently use a facial toner?  If not, why not?  I'd love to hear from you!  Please leave your comment below.  Thank you!

Related Posts:
The Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser...It's More Than Just a Cleanser!
The PERFECT Skin Care Routine

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Cheers!

-The Mineral Makeup Coach

The Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser: It's MORE Than Just a Cleanser!

PRIIA Cosmetics Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser has been a wildly popular product ever since its launch in March of this year.  Not only does it thoroughly cleanse and remove impurities from the skin (without stripping the lipid barrier) because of the bentonite clay it contains, but it also gently exfoliates through the use of tiny jojoba beads.   Japanese Green Tea Leaf extract provides a potent dose of antioxidant protection, while the refreshing citrus aroma invigorates the senses.

But, did you know this product can be used for another skin care purpose as well?

The Cream Clay Exfoliating Cleanser can also be be used as a facial masque!  Simply apply the product without water to the face (avoiding lips & eyes) with either your fingers or a fan brush and gently massage into the skin for approximately 30 seconds.  Leave the product on for 7-10 minuntes.  Before removing, add some water to your face and massage the cleanser around again for a minute or so.  Then, gently remove the product using warm water and a facial shamois or washcloth.  Follow up with a toner and your favorite skin care products.

You'll be amazed at how soft and smooth your skin will feel, not to mention how clear your skin will look.  I recommend using this product as a facial masque 1-2x's per week for maximum results. It's the perfect at-home skin care treatment for those with oily, congested, or combination skin types.

Give this awesome product a try to today- sample sizes are available for purchase at www.priia.com .

Related Posts:
Are Facial Scrubs Good For Your Skin?
Exfoliation...What's The Difference?
The PERFECT Skin Care Routine

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If you enjoy reading The Mineral Makeup Coach Blog, please feel free to share the home page with your friends using this link: http://tinyurl.com/5eqd9q.

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Cheers!

-The Mineral Makeup Coach

 

Are Facial Scrubs Good For Your Skin?

The answer to this is question is "YES" and "NO".

Exfoliation of the skin is critical to keeping it looking good and healthy.  However, when using a facial scrub, look for one that has spherical (round) particles to exfoliate the skin such as jojoba beads.  Facial scrubs that contain ingredients like crushed apricot or walnut shells can have jagged edges. When moved over the skin, these jagged particles can cause micro-tears in epidermis leading to inflammation.  Inflammation is a pre-cursor to having the skin age more quickly which is exactly what you DON'T want to happen.

PRIIA Cosmetics offers a wonderful facial product called the Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser.  It contains tiny micro jojoba beads that gently glide across the skin's surface loosening and lifting away dead skin cells.  This unique cleanser not only exfoliates the epidermis (top layer of the skin) but it also helps to rid the pores of impurities because it contains bentonite clay.  It's delicious citrus aroma will soothe and invigorate the senses at the same time.  PRIIA offers sample sizes of this wonderful cleanser so you can try before you buy the full-size version.  Give it a try...your skin will thank you.

Related Posts:
Exfoliation...What's The Difference???

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~The Mineral Makeup Coach

 

Can Vitamin C Prevent Acne?

This may sound way too good to be true (and you know the old saying...), but more than just a few significant studies (plus my own experiencse) are placing a connection between taking vitamin C orally and the prevention of acne.

Vitamin C is considered a "super vitamin" because it plays such a key role in boosting the immune system and preventing infection.  In order to reap the possible antibacterial benefits of taking vitamin C supplements, it's recommended that you take 1,000mg to 1600mg, three times per day.  A few other supplements that seem to work well alongside vitamin C in the prevention of acne are: vitamin E, vitamin B complex and zinc.

Before I even found out about these studies, I'd starting taking the above mentioned supplements, and I can tell you that's it made an amazing difference in my skin.  Rarely do I experience a breakout anymore; even at that 'special' time of the month.  If I do happen to get a breakout, it is so small and basically undetectable.  I can defintely deal with that!

Of course, always check with your doctor before taking any supplements.  If he/she gives you the 'green light', then go for it.  Clear skin may be closer than you think. ;-)

Question:  If you experience breakouts, is there anything you've found out of the ordinary to help treat them?  Let me know by leaving a comment below.  Thanks!

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Cheers!

-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Body Acne- Part 2

In my first post, Body Acne- Part 1, I discussed what body acne is, where it's most commonly found and what things seem to exacerbate the problem.

In today's post, I'll talk about what you can do about it, so that ultimately, you're more comfortable in your own skin.

First, you must understand that treating body acne can be a little more difficult than facial acne.  This is because the skin is thicker in areas such the back, shoulders, upper arms, etc.  However, this can be a good thing because you can actually be a little more aggressive with treatment and not get as sensitive as you might on the face.  It's common to combine several different therapies to combat body acne.

Three steps are key when treating body acne: Exfoliating, Dissolving clogged pores and using an antibacterial, such as benzoyl peroxide.

You need to exfoliate your body just as you would your face in order to slough away dead skin cells and prevent them from building up and trapping oil, dirt & debris within the pores.  I DO NOT recommend using a harsh exfoliant such as a loofah or sugar/salt scrub on areas that are broken out.  Instead, reach for a cleanser that has mild exfoliating beads that are spherical in shape, as these will not cause micro-tears in the skin.  Also, do not use any type of mechanical exfoliant on active acne blemishes, as this can exacerbate the situation.  In the case of active breakouts, consider using a chemical (alphahydroxy or betahydroxy acid) or enzyme exfoliant.  These will slough away dead skin cells without the manual scrubbing action and also speed up cellular turnover to prevent pore blockages.

In order to help dissolve the material that's causing the clogged pore(s) and that's the food source for the P. Acnes bacteria, you will need to use a lipophilic (oil-dissolving) product, such as salicylic acid.  Salicylic acid, a betahydroxy acid (BHA), can throughly dissolve the hardened sebum plugs to unclog the pores.  Consider using salicylic acid pads- they will exfoliate and dissolve dead skin cells at the same time. 

For a deeper exfoliation, consider consulting a licensed skin care professional.  They can discuss which options will be right for you depending upon the grade of acne you have.

Next, you must use some type of antibacterial product to kill the P. Acnes bacteria.  A good choice is benzoyl peroxide.  It's highly effective in levels of 2-5%.  Benzoyl peroxide delivers oxygen to the pores.  The P. Acnes bacteria are anaerobic and cannot live in the presence of oxygen.  Just remember though, benzoyl peroxide is NOT recommended as a spot treatment.  It's meant to be used as an all-over treatment product and works best when used this way.  It's also a product that you'll most likely need to build up to using throughout the night.  You can't slather on benzoyl peroxide, sleep 8 hours with on and NOT have side-effects such as extreme dryness, peeling, etc.  You have to slowly build-up to using this product over the course of a couple weeks.  This means leaving it on for 15 minutes and then washing it off.  Follow this routine for 3 to 4 nights in a row.  Next, build up to 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 2 hours and then, within a few weeks time, you should be able to leave it on throughout the night.  If you notice some mild dryness, flakiness or peeling- this is normal.  Consider using pure jojoba oil to keep the area(s) moisturized.  Jojoba oil is non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic.  Please be aware that benzoyl peroxide can bleach anything it touches, so wear an old cotton t-shirt to bed and white sheets/pillow-cases to avoid ruining your clothing and bedding. 

Be aware that when purchasing benzoyl peroxide, some over-the-counter (and even prescription products) actually contain highly comedogenic ingredients such as isopropyl myristate.  This ingredient is used to give the product a smooth, creamy texture but rates as a 5 (the worst) on the comedogenic/irritancy scale.  Stear clear of these ingredients as your problems will only get worse.  Why would an acne medication contain comedogenic ingredients?  Honestly, I do not know.  I recommend using a benzoyl peroxide gel from a company called VISUAL CHANGES.  This is a professionally dispensed product line but you can contact the company directly for list of salons/spas/med-spas/dermatoligist offices that carry this line.

Another step to perform when treating body acne is to apply ice to the affected area(s).  Using a cold pack for 1 to 3 minutes will help to reduce inflammation and can often make blemishes go away.  Apply ice after cleansing & toning and BEFORE the application of an antibacterial, such as benzoyl peroxide.

Lastly, to minimize scarring, DO NOT pick at your blemishes, avoid indoor tanning and limit sun exposure.  UVA & UVB rays can darken acne scars-plus, if you're using AHA's, BHA's, prescription meds as wells as over-the-counter products to treat your acne, your skin can be become much more sensitive when exposed to ultraviolet light causing a serious sunburn.  Always wear an appropriate, non-comedogenic SPF- NO EXCEPTIONS.

The keys to successful acne treatment, no matter where it's found on the body or face, are patience and consistency.  The time and diligence it takes for proper treatment will be well worth it when you can wear that tank top or sleeveless outfit with total confidence!

Question:  Was this post helpful to you?  Did you learn something new that you may not have known before?  I'd love to hear from you.  Please leave a comment below.  Thank you!

Related Post: Body Acne- Part 1

Please note that the advice and information contained here are for informational purposes only.  It is not intended to be used a substitute for medical advice.  Please consult your health care provider before using any medications or beginning any skin care regimin.

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Cheers!

-The Mineral Makeup Coach