"The Mineral Makeup Coach Blog"

Summer is Ending but Your SPF Usage Shouldn't!

Summer is winding down and the kiddies are headed back to school.  For some, that means the SPF gets put away on a shelf somewhere until next summer.  DO NOT DO THIS.

We are exposed to ultraviolet light ALL YEAR ROUND.  This means we should be protecting our skin from sun damage 24/7 365 days a year.  Driving in the car, walking into the store and sitting by a window are all sneaky ways that photo damage can occur.

Many people think that if they don't get a burn, they don't get damage.  That's NOT true.  UVB rays cause the burn but only reach the skin's surface.  UVA rays penetrate all the way down into the dermis (deepest layer of skin) and cause hyperpigmentation (brown spots) and the breakdown of collagen and elastin.  This leads to wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin and uneven skin tone.

Did you know that the SPF rating on your bottle, jar or can of sunscreen is ONLY for UVB rays?  The SPF doesn't account for UVA rays.  The FDA is currently working on regulation for a system to rate sunscreen's effectiveness against UVA rays.

Most over-the-counter sunscreens contain chemicals such as oxybenzone and avobenzone.  Chemical sunscreens ABSORB the sun's rays and scatter them within the body.  Also, chemical sunscreens begin to breakdown as soon as they are exposed to light.  They need to be applied 20-30 minutes PRIOR to sun exposure and they need to be reapplied frequently to be effective.  Don't be fooled into thinking that an SPF 50 is BETTER than an SPF 30.  The amount of increased protection between the two is only about 2%-4% , yet it takes tons more chemicals to make an SPF 50.  You don't need all of those additional chemicals getting into your body.  Stick with an SPF 30 and look for one that states "BROAD SPECTRUM PROTECTION".

In my opinion, the best sunscreens are those with physical blockers such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  These prevent the sun's rays from getting into your skin- the rays literally bouce right off.  They can applied as soon as you are exposed to light and they don't have the tendency to breakdown. Plus, zinc and titanium don't cause sensitivies like chemical sunscreens can.  Unlike the formulas of days gone by (think lifeguards with white goo smeared on their faces), today's physical sunscreens are more sheer and made to go on smoothly without leaving all of that ugly residue.

My favorite SPF product is by a company called IMAGE.  Their sunscreens are all physical blockers plus they  are chock full of good-for-your-skin ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants, skin hydrators and green tea.  Plus, they are all paraben-free.  IMAGE is a professional-only product but you can contact them directly to find out which salons in your area carries the line.

So, there you have it.  Be sun smart ALL YEAR ROUND not just in the summer months.  You'll be glad you listened to me. ;-)

RELATED POSTS:
The Truth About Layering Sun Protection Products
It's Official- Indoor Tanning Beds DO Cause Cancer

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-Kelley (a.k.a The Mineral Makeup Coach)
Licensed Esthetician & Owner/Formulator of PRIIA Mineral Cosmetics

Probiotics: A Possible Cure for Acne?

Probiotics are microbes which are "good" bacteria that help to balance the body and can be found in foods such as yogurt and milk.  Probiotics are also available in supplement form such as Acidophillus tablets. 

Typically, probiotics are used to treat wide variety of digestive and gastrointestinal issues, however, lately they are being looked at as a possible topical treatment for acne skin conditions.  The theory being presented is that probiotics will clear up acne by reducing the amount of bacteria on the skin's surface.  Also, probiotics can help reduce the amount of inflammation within the skin which is also a contributing factor to those who suffer from acne.

Here's my opinion on the subject as a licensed skin care professional specializing in the treatment of acneic skin conditions...

First, anything claiming to be a "cure" for acne should immediately send up red flags.  Why?  Because there is NO CURE for acne.  It can be managed but not cured.

Secondly, although the theory of probiotics reducing the amount of bacteria on the skin's surface sounds promising, it doesn't attack the SOURCE.  The bacteria that causes acne is the p.acnes bacteria and lives deep within the sebaceous (oil) glands.  When the follicle gets 'plugged' and no oxygen can get to it, the p.acnes bacteria multiply rapidly because they are anaerobic (live without oxygen).  Once this happens, the infection takes hold and a pimple begins to form.  Probiotics can't get to the source; they only work on the outter most layer of the skin.

Overall, I feel probiotics aren't a bad idea when it comes to another means to treating acne.  They do offer surface bacteria reduction to a point and they have anti-aging and skin-tone-improving abilities.  However, in my opinion, they need to be used IN CONJUCTION with other proven acne-fighters. 

Question: Have you ever tried probiotics as a means to treating breakouts such as making a homemade yogurt facial masque?  Let me know-I'd like to hear your thoughts.  Thanks!

Related Posts:
Can Vitamin C Prevent Acne?
Understanding Your Acne

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Why YOU Should Be Using A Facial Toner

The most important step in a skin care routine is obviously cleansing.  The next most important step, in my professional opinion, is using a facial toner suited for your skin type.

Why are toners important? 

First, they help remove any residual debris left on the skin's surface from cleansing.  Secondly, they help bring the skin back to a normal pH level more quickly, which in turn, helps prevent dehydration.  Lastly, toners enable the skin to more effectively receive the benefits of other skin care products such as specialty serums and moisturizers.

Choose a toner that is skin type specific to address your individual needs. Also look for one that is alcohol-free.  You don't want to strip the skin's natural lipid barrier.

If you're looking for a toner but not sure which one to try, consider PRIIA Cosmetics 100% Natural & Vegan facial toners.  Choose from Clarifying for those with oily/congested/acneic skin types or Revitalizing for all skin types.  These toners are skillfully crafted and contain rare and exotic ingredients such as Cactus Flower Extract, plus they're boosted with super antioxidants, such as organic Japanese Green Tea Extract & Vitamin E.  PRIIA's toners are alcohol-free, paraben-free, petroleum derivative-free, synthetic emulsifier-free, FD&C dye-free and as always, cruelty-free.

PRIIA Cosmetics offers sample sizes of these wonderfully refreshing toners.  So, you can try them out before committing to a full-size purchase.

Question:  Do you currently use a facial toner?  If not, why not?  I'd love to hear from you!  Please leave your comment below.  Thank you!

Related Posts:
The Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser...It's More Than Just a Cleanser!
The PERFECT Skin Care Routine

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

The Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser: It's MORE Than Just a Cleanser!

PRIIA Cosmetics Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser has been a wildly popular product ever since its launch in March of this year.  Not only does it thoroughly cleanse and remove impurities from the skin (without stripping the lipid barrier) because of the bentonite clay it contains, but it also gently exfoliates through the use of tiny jojoba beads.   Japanese Green Tea Leaf extract provides a potent dose of antioxidant protection, while the refreshing citrus aroma invigorates the senses.

But, did you know this product can be used for another skin care purpose as well?

The Cream Clay Exfoliating Cleanser can also be be used as a facial masque!  Simply apply the product without water to the face (avoiding lips & eyes) with either your fingers or a fan brush and gently massage into the skin for approximately 30 seconds.  Leave the product on for 7-10 minuntes.  Before removing, add some water to your face and massage the cleanser around again for a minute or so.  Then, gently remove the product using warm water and a facial shamois or washcloth.  Follow up with a toner and your favorite skin care products.

You'll be amazed at how soft and smooth your skin will feel, not to mention how clear your skin will look.  I recommend using this product as a facial masque 1-2x's per week for maximum results. It's the perfect at-home skin care treatment for those with oily, congested, or combination skin types.

Give this awesome product a try to today- sample sizes are available for purchase at www.priia.com .

Related Posts:
Are Facial Scrubs Good For Your Skin?
Exfoliation...What's The Difference?
The PERFECT Skin Care Routine

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

 

Are Facial Scrubs Good For Your Skin?

The answer to this is question is "YES" and "NO".

Exfoliation of the skin is critical to keeping it looking good and healthy.  However, when using a facial scrub, look for one that has spherical (round) particles to exfoliate the skin such as jojoba beads.  Facial scrubs that contain ingredients like crushed apricot or walnut shells can have jagged edges. When moved over the skin, these jagged particles can cause micro-tears in epidermis leading to inflammation.  Inflammation is a pre-cursor to having the skin age more quickly which is exactly what you DON'T want to happen.

PRIIA Cosmetics offers a wonderful facial product called the Creamy Clay Exfoliating Cleanser.  It contains tiny micro jojoba beads that gently glide across the skin's surface loosening and lifting away dead skin cells.  This unique cleanser not only exfoliates the epidermis (top layer of the skin) but it also helps to rid the pores of impurities because it contains bentonite clay.  It's delicious citrus aroma will soothe and invigorate the senses at the same time.  PRIIA offers sample sizes of this wonderful cleanser so you can try before you buy the full-size version.  Give it a try...your skin will thank you.

Related Posts:
Exfoliation...What's The Difference???

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~The Mineral Makeup Coach

 

Can Vitamin C Prevent Acne?

This may sound way too good to be true (and you know the old saying...), but more than just a few significant studies (plus my own experiencse) are placing a connection between taking vitamin C orally and the prevention of acne.

Vitamin C is considered a "super vitamin" because it plays such a key role in boosting the immune system and preventing infection.  In order to reap the possible antibacterial benefits of taking vitamin C supplements, it's recommended that you take 1,000mg to 1600mg, three times per day.  A few other supplements that seem to work well alongside vitamin C in the prevention of acne are: vitamin E, vitamin B complex and zinc.

Before I even found out about these studies, I'd starting taking the above mentioned supplements, and I can tell you that's it made an amazing difference in my skin.  Rarely do I experience a breakout anymore; even at that 'special' time of the month.  If I do happen to get a breakout, it is so small and basically undetectable.  I can defintely deal with that!

Of course, always check with your doctor before taking any supplements.  If he/she gives you the 'green light', then go for it.  Clear skin may be closer than you think. ;-)

Question:  If you experience breakouts, is there anything you've found out of the ordinary to help treat them?  Let me know by leaving a comment below.  Thanks!

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Body Acne- Part 2

In my first post, Body Acne- Part 1, I discussed what body acne is, where it's most commonly found and what things seem to exacerbate the problem.

In today's post, I'll talk about what you can do about it, so that ultimately, you're more comfortable in your own skin.

First, you must understand that treating body acne can be a little more difficult than facial acne.  This is because the skin is thicker in areas such the back, shoulders, upper arms, etc.  However, this can be a good thing because you can actually be a little more aggressive with treatment and not get as sensitive as you might on the face.  It's common to combine several different therapies to combat body acne.

Three steps are key when treating body acne: Exfoliating, Dissolving clogged pores and using an antibacterial, such as benzoyl peroxide.

You need to exfoliate your body just as you would your face in order to slough away dead skin cells and prevent them from building up and trapping oil, dirt & debris within the pores.  I DO NOT recommend using a harsh exfoliant such as a loofah or sugar/salt scrub on areas that are broken out.  Instead, reach for a cleanser that has mild exfoliating beads that are spherical in shape, as these will not cause micro-tears in the skin.  Also, do not use any type of mechanical exfoliant on active acne blemishes, as this can exacerbate the situation.  In the case of active breakouts, consider using a chemical (alphahydroxy or betahydroxy acid) or enzyme exfoliant.  These will slough away dead skin cells without the manual scrubbing action and also speed up cellular turnover to prevent pore blockages.

In order to help dissolve the material that's causing the clogged pore(s) and that's the food source for the P. Acnes bacteria, you will need to use a lipophilic (oil-dissolving) product, such as salicylic acid.  Salicylic acid, a betahydroxy acid (BHA), can throughly dissolve the hardened sebum plugs to unclog the pores.  Consider using salicylic acid pads- they will exfoliate and dissolve dead skin cells at the same time. 

For a deeper exfoliation, consider consulting a licensed skin care professional.  They can discuss which options will be right for you depending upon the grade of acne you have.

Next, you must use some type of antibacterial product to kill the P. Acnes bacteria.  A good choice is benzoyl peroxide.  It's highly effective in levels of 2-5%.  Benzoyl peroxide delivers oxygen to the pores.  The P. Acnes bacteria are anaerobic and cannot live in the presence of oxygen.  Just remember though, benzoyl peroxide is NOT recommended as a spot treatment.  It's meant to be used as an all-over treatment product and works best when used this way.  It's also a product that you'll most likely need to build up to using throughout the night.  You can't slather on benzoyl peroxide, sleep 8 hours with on and NOT have side-effects such as extreme dryness, peeling, etc.  You have to slowly build-up to using this product over the course of a couple weeks.  This means leaving it on for 15 minutes and then washing it off.  Follow this routine for 3 to 4 nights in a row.  Next, build up to 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 2 hours and then, within a few weeks time, you should be able to leave it on throughout the night.  If you notice some mild dryness, flakiness or peeling- this is normal.  Consider using pure jojoba oil to keep the area(s) moisturized.  Jojoba oil is non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic.  Please be aware that benzoyl peroxide can bleach anything it touches, so wear an old cotton t-shirt to bed and white sheets/pillow-cases to avoid ruining your clothing and bedding. 

Be aware that when purchasing benzoyl peroxide, some over-the-counter (and even prescription products) actually contain highly comedogenic ingredients such as isopropyl myristate.  This ingredient is used to give the product a smooth, creamy texture but rates as a 5 (the worst) on the comedogenic/irritancy scale.  Stear clear of these ingredients as your problems will only get worse.  Why would an acne medication contain comedogenic ingredients?  Honestly, I do not know.  I recommend using a benzoyl peroxide gel from a company called VISUAL CHANGES.  This is a professionally dispensed product line but you can contact the company directly for list of salons/spas/med-spas/dermatoligist offices that carry this line.

Another step to perform when treating body acne is to apply ice to the affected area(s).  Using a cold pack for 1 to 3 minutes will help to reduce inflammation and can often make blemishes go away.  Apply ice after cleansing & toning and BEFORE the application of an antibacterial, such as benzoyl peroxide.

Lastly, to minimize scarring, DO NOT pick at your blemishes, avoid indoor tanning and limit sun exposure.  UVA & UVB rays can darken acne scars-plus, if you're using AHA's, BHA's, prescription meds as wells as over-the-counter products to treat your acne, your skin can be become much more sensitive when exposed to ultraviolet light causing a serious sunburn.  Always wear an appropriate, non-comedogenic SPF- NO EXCEPTIONS.

The keys to successful acne treatment, no matter where it's found on the body or face, are patience and consistency.  The time and diligence it takes for proper treatment will be well worth it when you can wear that tank top or sleeveless outfit with total confidence!

Question:  Was this post helpful to you?  Did you learn something new that you may not have known before?  I'd love to hear from you.  Please leave a comment below.  Thank you!

Related Post: Body Acne- Part 1

Please note that the advice and information contained here are for informational purposes only.  It is not intended to be used a substitute for medical advice.  Please consult your health care provider before using any medications or beginning any skin care regimin.

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Body Acne- Part 1

For many women, acne breakouts in areas other than the face are a major problem.  From the back and chest to the rear, shoulders, and beyond, body acne can cause feelings of insecurity as well as wardrobe limitations.

Since Spring is already here, many women are already out shopping for the latest in warm weather fashions.  But, for those who have body acne breakouts, you may feel like wearing those long-sleeved shirts a little while longer.  In this post, we'll look at what causes body acne and in a follow-up post, we'll investigate what you can do about it.

First, take heart.  Just like breakouts on the face, body acne is treatable.  However, because the skin on the body is thicker than it is on the face, body acne can be more stubborn, so you must be patient as there are no cures for acne but there are methods to reduce; even prevent the chances of breakouts from occuring.  Get a jump on the situation now, so when the really warm weather rolls around, you won't feel embarrassed to wear that sleeveless tank top.

The Causes

Even though the location of the acne may be different, the cycle or pattern is still the same.  Dirt, oil and debris get trapped with in the pore.  Bacteria feed off of this and begin to multiply rapidly.  White blood cells rush to the area of inflammation and cause redness, pain and swelling to occur in an effort to thwart bacterial growth.  The result?  A sore, red pimple that may or may not have a whitehead.  In addition to this cycle, other factors can come into play and simply exacerbate the problem.

1) SWEAT- Perspiration acts like a 'film' that traps oil, dirt and debris in the pore(s).  If you exercise, be sure to shower right away and use a fresh towel.  You should be using a separate, fresh towel during your workout to wipe away any sweat- do not use your hands or forearms.  Also, consider carrying a toner & some cotton rounds with you in your purse.  Lightly mist your decollete, upper arms and shoulders a few times a day to remove any excess perspiration.

2) CLOTHING- Wearing clothing that doesn't 'breathe'- especially when perspiring- traps sweat against the skin causing the problem described above.  Also, irritating fabrics can cause friction and pressure against the skin, contributing to breakouts.

3) PRODUCTS- Cosmetics for the face AND body such as creams and lotions can be comedogenic and cause acne breakouts.  Hair care products can also cause a problem due to heavy oils and waxes contained in most of these types of products.  Depending on where you're breaking out, consider the types of products that may come in contact with the area(s) of concern.

In my next post, I discuss how you can treat body acne breakouts.  For more information on acne and its causes, check out these RELATED POSTS:
Understanding Your Acne
Eat Chocolate...Get Zits?

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Cleansing Your Skin with The Oil Cleansing Method

"Cleansing your skin with oil?"  "How can that be right?"  "Won't it clog my pores and make me breakout?"

Are those some of the questions running through your mind right now?  If so, you're not alone.  Even as an esthetician, I was skeptical (Ok, I was actually a little freaked out) when I was first introduced to this method of cleaning of my face.  Since I have very oily skin, I couldn't imagine using an oil to cleanse it!  But, let's take a look at the facts, and you'll get a better understanding as to why this method of "washing" your face is one of the best ways to a healthier-looking complexion, bar none.

Dispel the Myths

First, let's dispel the myth that oil itself causes acne breakouts.  This is so far removed from the truth.  The cause(s) of acne has a multitude of factors including: genetics, hormones, hyperkeratinization, propensity of the pore(s) to become clogged, ingredients in cosmetics, bacterial growth, etc.  The oil your skin produces, known as sebum, is there to protect and lubricate delicate facial tissue.  It's only when the oil begins to become trapped beneath the skin's surface, that bacteria will begin to feed off of the fatty acids in the sebum and multiply at a rapid growth rate.

The sebum gets trapped in the pore because of a process called hyperkeratinization.  This is when the skin cells turnover rapidly but are not being sloughed away quick enough from the surface of the skin.  The keratinized (hardended) cells build up layer upon layer, the sebum helps to compact them even more, bacteria then begin to feed off of this and multiply rapidly, and before you know it, you've got a problem rearing its ugly head right on your face.  So, now you know that oil, by itself, does not cause acne breakouts.

Oil Dissolves Oil

Oil will actually dissolve oil, whereas water cannot unless combined with an emulsifying agent, as in typical, over-the-counter cleansers.  One of the basic principles of chemistry is that "like dissolves like" unless you are using a harsh solvent (i.e. alcohol).  The best way to dissolve a non-polar solvent like sebum, is by using another non-polar solvent similar in composition, such as jojoba oil.

By using the right oils on your skin, known as The Oil Cleansing Method (or OCM), you can help release your pores from dirt and bacteria naturally without the use of harsh chemical surfactants, such as sulfates.  Using natural oils to cleanse the skin helps to heal, protect, nourish, balance and moisturize it.

When the OCM is done properly and consistently, it can help rid the skin of issues like: overly oily skin, dry/dehydrated skin, blackheads, whiteheads and other skin issues.  Your skin will look and feel healthier, be more balanced and also be properly moisturized.  It's a win-win situation.

The OCM may take a little while to get used to, but over time with consistent use and the results it yields, you'll wonder what you ever did without it.

PRIIA Cosmetics is pleased to offer our Exotic Oil Cleanse.  This unique cleanser utilizes The Oil Cleansing Method.  It's infused with Japanese Green Tea extract, citrus essential oils, golden jojoba oil and camellia oil.  It also contains rice bran oil which has a natural form of skin-soothing Vitamin E.  Our Exotic Oil Cleanse is vegan, gluten-free, non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic. 

RIght now you can save 10% off this fabulous cleanser!  Just go to www.priia.com and enter this code at checkout: PRIIA
If you're unsure if this cleanser is right for you, you can purchase the small sampler size to try before committing to the full size version.

Hurry!  This sales ends on March 31st, 2009!

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Teens, Dairy Products & Acne- Is There A Connection?

In past posts, I've already debunked the myths that sugar and chocolate cause acne.  According to dermatologists, genetics and hormonal fluctuations are what determines if a person will develop acne, hence the tendency to occur at the onset of and during puberty. But, what about dairy products?  Is there a link between this food group and teens with acne?  Actually, yes there is.

If you're a parent of a teen who has acne, you already know how embarrassed your child can feel when they have a breakout and have to try and face the world.  Unfortunately, kids can be cruel and your child's self esteem can wind up in the toilet when they're being ridiculed by classmates about the bumps all over their face.

The first place you can begin to help your teen deal with acne is by taking a look at their diet.  Recent studies have pointed to the intake of dairy products as being a contributing factor to teenage acne.  One of the largest studies to demonstrate this was published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology by a team at Harvard University.

What The Research Says...

The researchers analyzed the habits and diets of nearly 50,000 people, looking especially at what they ate while in high school.  Those who drank 3 or more cups of milk a day, the researchers found, were 22% more likely to experience severe acne compared to those who drank one serving or less.  Skim milk was actually found to have the greatest effect.  Cream cheese and cottage cheese were also associated with breakouts, while chocolate and greasy foods were not.  The researchers attributed the effect to hormones in milk; other studies have had similar findings.

Dr. Diane S. Berson, an assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of Cornell University, said foods that contain iodides, like shellfish, soy sauce and kelp, might also exacerbate acne.  Iodides are thought to play a role in inflammation.  Also, cows lick salt licks which get into the milk and can be another reason behind the connection of acne and dairy products.

The Bottom Line:  If your teen has acne, take a look at their diet and share this information with them.  Consider switching to organic foods that do not contain hormones.  Also, you may want to put away the salt shaker or at least switch to uniodized salt.

Question: Do you have a teen or know of someone with a teen who has acne?  Do you feel this information will be helpful to them?  Let me know by leaving a comment in the box below.  Thank you!

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach