Welcome to a 3-part tutorial on advanced mineral makeup techniques! This 3-part series is entitled "The Fortune is in The Face" and it will help you solve 3 areas of concern for women: Face, Eyes & Lips. Enjoy!
There are 9 basic facial shapes: Round, Square, Heart, Pear/Triangle, Oblong, Rectangle, Diamond, Inverted Triangle, Oval.
An oval-shaped face is considered the perfect facial shape. It’s easy to achieve an oval-shaped face with nothing more than foundation and powder.
Sculpting the Face to Perfection:
The following technique will add color, warmth and life to EVERY face. The subtle effect of facial sculpting can
also add a youthful glow to your complexion and make fuller faces appear much slimmer and younger.
Basic facial “sculpting” involves highlighting and contouring the face. Highlighting or lightening brings everything forward. Contouring or darkening/deepening makes everything recede.
Through facial sculpting, we pull forward the area of the face we want to see (the oval area) and push back the areas we don’t want to see.
What you need to start: 3 shades of foundation or powder (highlight powder and bronzers) in 3 different DEPTH levels.
- First color choice should MATCH your skin exactly- your true foundation color. For example, let's say you wear NEUTRAL BEIGE in PRIIA's Essential Cover Loose Mineral Foundation.
- Second choice is your HIGHLIGHT color. This color should be one level LIGHTER than your first color; preferably with the same undertone. (Your choice would be Neutral Ivory Foundation)
- Third choice is your CONTOUR shade. It should be one level DEEPER; preferably with the same undertone. Here’s where you can use matte bronzers if you choose. DO NOT USE BLUSH TO
CONTOUR. (You could use Neutral Tan Foundation)
To begin sculpting:
- Apply the first color (true foundation color) in a light layer all over the face. Visualize an OVAL on your
face. The width of the oval is your eye sockets; the height and length of the oval extends from the tip ofyour forehead to the tip of your chin. The reason behind envisioning an oval is to help see where to
highlight and contour.
- Next, apply your second color (highlight color) to the high points inside the oval. These include: forehead, under the eyes at the top of your cheekbones (zygomatic arch), and the tip of the chin.
- Finally, apply your third color (contour color) to the areas OUTSIDE of the oval such as temples, along the hairline and sides of the cheeks down to the jaw. Finish off the look with a light dusting of powder in either translucent or one that matches the true skin tone.
*TIP: If you want more of a dramatic appearance (i.e. special events, photo shoots, etc.), then choose a more dramatic contrast between the 3 shade choices. Just remember, the more dramatic your color choices, the more carefully and thoroughly you’ll need to blend the shades together.
Rule of Thumb: With ivory/beige skin tones, you will CONTOUR more than you highlight. With bronze/ebony skin, you will HIGHLIGHT more than you contour.
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Stay tuned for Part 2 in this series: EYES
-Kelley (a.k.a. The Mineral Makeup Coach)