On March 11th 2013, PRIIA Cosmetics released updated formulas for two of its best selling products. One of them was our oil-control powder known as HydraPrime. The new formula now contains Japanese Green Tea Extract.
Since the release of PRIIA’s two updated formulas, I’ve been made aware of recent various web articles and blog posts written by so-called self-proclaimed“skin care experts” and beauty “gurus” that are intent on disproving thebenefits of using botanicals and extracts in mineral makeup. Do I think these articles written AFTER the debut of PRIIA's reformulated products are a coincidence? No, I do not. Actually, I find them to be almost a personal attack of sorts on my company, my integrity, skin care knowledge and formulating expertise.
In a nutshell, these articles and posts are claiming that companies (such as PRIIA) who are using botanicals and extracts like Japanese Green Tea, are out to fool or “dupe” the customer and that formulas (such as HydraPrime) are simply nothing more than marketing ‘puffery’ and gimmicks.
First, I’d like to point out that the individuals who are writing these posts and articles have no formal training, licensure, degree or background in the arenas of cosmetic chemistry, esthetics or skin histology. Unlike a licensed skin care professional or cosmetic chemist, their knowledge is extremely limited and relies vastly on
simply ‘googling’ information. Anyone can write a beauty article and anyone can buy a book or watch a YouTube video on how to make mineral makeup. It certainly doesn’t take a genius to do this.
I have had the honor and pleasure to be able to work with some of the esthetic industry’s top skin care professionals and cosmetic chemists and formulators. With their guidance, I’ve been able to formulate a line of natural mineral cosmetics that I am proud of beyond words. I stand behind each and every formula I create and manufacture. Any of our products, such as HydraPrime, that contain botanicals and extracts are formulated in such a manner in order to protect and preserve the botanical’s and/or extract’s efficacy. Through a propriety encapsulation process (akin to liposome technology), we can ensure our botanicals and extracts don’t degrade in a short period of time without having to use preservative systems such as parabens. If adding botanicals and
extracts to formulas were as easy as just dumping some raw ingredients into powdered makeup and giving it a stir, then everybody would be doing it. Well, it’s not that easy and everybody is NOT doing it. The process of properly incorporating actives into a formula is actually quite complicated and delicate.
Another point I feel worth mentioning is the percentages of botanicals and extracts used within formulas. Some of these recent articles and posts purport that if a botanical and/or extract is listed near the bottom of the ingredient deck, it is essentially rendered ineffective in a formula. PRIIA’s ingredient decks are always listed in order of predominance. This means ingredients listed at the top of the deck are in the highest percentage within a formula and ingredients listed toward the bottom are at the lowest percentage within a formula. The TYPE of botanical or extract determines where it must be placed within our formulas. For example, our Japanese Green Tea and our Allantoin (derived from the Comfrey plant) CANNOT be used at more than 2% in any given formula otherwise the potential for skin irritation can occur due to their potency. In simple terms, this means if the total formula batch is 100 grams, these ingredients cannot consist of more than 2 grams (2%) in the formula’s entirety. By no means does this indicate that the ingredient is ineffective. We are simply following the recommend and SAFE usage rates. However, there are certain ingredients, such as in the case of peptides, where they are being used in very small percentages in an overall formula. I see this in OTC beauty products all of the time- the peptides are listed at the BOTTOM of the ingredient deck when they should be much closer to the top. In this scenario, the peptide would be ineffective at such a small percentage. Ingredients like peptides need to be higher up on the ingredient deck in order to do their job. One such company who utilizes peptides in the manner in which they were intended is: IMAGE Skin Care. It’s a professional skin care line and can only be dispensed by an MD or other licensed skin care professional. I’ve had the pleasure of working with them for over 7 years.
I’ve always come from the mindset that they are plenty of customers to go around. I don’t feel the need to bash or question other companies who are formulating exciting and innovative products in order to try and gain more support for my own company. My products speak for themselves. Is PRIIA right for EVERYONE? No, and I’m OK with that fact. Some customers will choose PRIIA and some won’t. Whether you are or aren’t a PRIIA customer, you can be assured that the products we manufacture are made with the highest quality ingredients as well as the highest integrity and formulating standards. :-)
-Kelley (a.k.a. The Mineral Makeup Coach)